丁稷骞 2024-6-17 14:06
【人文】法国摩纳哥意大利三国16天自驾游记之四，比萨佛罗伦萨篇--1[122P]
2018年10月8日，从法国尼斯开车前往意大利比萨、佛罗伦萨。
从尼斯到比萨，350公里。原要走的意大利的一座桥在8月14日塌了，很大的事故，注意到了新闻报道，于是换了条高速走。看地图以为是沿海公路，却实际是典型的山区公路，隧道一个接着一个，弯道很多，大货车也多，开了5个小时。
在欧洲开车，总体感觉还是不错的。不过山区的道路也是一样的难开。10月6日，从阿讷西开往尼斯时，走了一段意大利境内，经过法意边境隧道，11.6公里，据说是欧洲最长，过路费45欧元。
第一部分 比萨
比萨是意大利中西部城市。临阿诺河，曾是利古里亚海岸港口，现已离海10公里，东距佛罗伦萨68公里。人口10.5万。
比萨城(Pisa)，位于佛罗伦萨西北方向，历史上是个海滨城市。
比萨的名气，很大程度上是受惠于比萨斜塔。
比萨斜塔原本是一座最普通不过的教堂钟塔，始建于1174年，可是，因造基不慎，建至第三层时发现塔身倾斜，被迫停建达1个世纪之久，后继续施工，1350年完工。
斜塔为8层圆柱形建筑，高约54.4米，塔底直径15.24米。全部用大理石砌成，重达1.42吨。塔内有294级台阶。
塔建成后，塔顶中心点偏离垂直中心线2.1米。现塔顶南倾已超出垂直平面5.3米，斜度为5°6′，偏离4.4米。而且倾斜度还以每年1毫米的速度继续增加。
但是，斜而不倒，岌岌可危，使其“歪打正着”，闻名遐迩，参观者络绎不绝。
伽利略曾在此做过著名的斜塔实验。读过初中的同学们都知道。
1590年，意大利物理学家伽利略在比萨大学当教授。
他站在塔顶，塔下站满了他是学生。
他左手拿着一颗铁球，右手握着一颗木球，两球一般大小。
塔顶万里晴空，伽利略松开双手，放下手中的铁球和木球。
铁球和木球同时落地------这就是著名的自由落体运动实验。
从此，历史记住了比萨斜塔、伽利略、自由落体！
圣乔瓦尼洗礼堂：
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10071b000001cgrug387D_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100n1b000001bz5h6311B_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
奇迹广场：
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1b000001c1ny23AF4_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1b000001c1ny899BA_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1b000001byxmhC9AF_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1b000001byxmw26F5_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10091b000001c2htfDE90_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10051b000001c2lj65182_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10061b000001c0ppl75E4_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100j1b000001bzlxbB1E0_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
比萨大教堂：
伽利略曾在大教堂做礼拜时，无意中，他发现教堂吊灯摆动具有周期性，因而提出著名的摆动原理。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1b000001c49x6B792_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100f1b000001c0431271E_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1b000001c49xl6C41_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100n1b000001bz5kgB05E_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100c1b000001c2qkk78E0_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10011b000001cd0nvE4C7_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1b000001c055eA4D3_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100i1b000001bywwt04F6_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10081b000001c0aej4EB4_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10041b000001bz2qu2C97_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10011b000001cd0ou39B6_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
第二部分 佛罗伦萨
从比萨开车来到佛罗伦萨，100公里。
这是第二次来到佛罗伦萨。
人们称罗马是意大利的政治首都，米兰是经济首都，佛罗伦萨是文化首都。
佛罗伦萨位于意大利中部，南距罗马280公里。
欧洲文艺复兴时期，佛罗伦萨是文艺复兴的发源地和中心。
一大批名人：但丁、达芬奇、米开朗琪罗、拉斐尔、乔托等。
伽利略是佛罗伦萨人。
佛罗伦萨有100多座博物馆、美术馆。宫殿和教堂，藏有大量的珍贵文物和绘画精华，人称“雅典第二”。
美第奇家族对佛罗伦萨成为一座举世闻名的文化城市起了巨大作用。美第奇家族在14世纪积累了大量的财富，从15世纪到18世纪，出了3位罗马教皇和2位法国王后。
钱太多了，找人算命，说要与人为善，多做好事。
于是，开始了爱好、扶植、保护文化艺术。发现了13岁的艺术天才米开朗琪罗，并让他学习雕刻；援助了拉斐尔等艺术家，让他们无后顾之忧，充分发挥他们的才华。等等。
我们在佛罗伦萨住在一家小旅馆里，只有4个房间，1800元人民币一间，包早餐。挺舒服的。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10071b000001cgwdo3A46_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100g1b000001c0wps61E4_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10021b000001c7anu53DF_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100j1b000001bzqe93220_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100a1b000001c1jfsD152_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10021b000001c7aqz4D4C_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100d1b000001byqmzDF57_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100a1b000001c1jhd43D5_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10051b000001c2q4gE6DC_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r1b000001byn5iADA1_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1b000001c1sla7AD3_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10071b000001cgwilD15C_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1b000001c2yxq8DA1_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l1b000001c0dyr139A_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100c1b000001c2v5a837A_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100w1b000001c697f885B_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100n1b000001bza5y8880_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l1b000001c0dzx7390_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100m1b000001c9lvu8CE2_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r1b000001byn7m7801_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100b1b000001c2lzq7089_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10061b000001c0udlF071_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p1b000001bzcuq3EEC_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1b000001c4emfA436_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10021b000001c7awy28CD_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1b000001c4en67E59_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1b000001bz2e7BD6F_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
乌菲兹美术馆:
这是意大利文艺复兴的艺术殿堂，珍藏达文西乔托(Giotto)、拉斐尔(Raffaello)、提香(Titian)、鲁本斯(Rubens)、卡拉瓦乔(Caravaggio)、米开朗基罗(Michelangelo)、和波提且利(Botticelli)等人的杰作。重要作品有波提且利的"维纳斯的诞生""春";达·芬奇的"三博士的朝拜";拉斐尔的"金翅雀的圣母"和米开朗基罗的"圣家族"等名作。
我感觉这里的艺术基本上基于宗教的基础，尤其是绘画，都是圣经的故事。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100j1b000001bzqob4603_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r1b000001bynb86487_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100i1b000001bz1moCE2E_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10011b000001cd5e9ECBF_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p1b000001bzcxj221C_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1b000001bz2g6F6B4_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100w1b000001c69drE32B_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100w1b000001c69dx41F5_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1b000001c09wv51B0_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100v1b000001cb9wi69C0_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1b000001c1stq6691_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10071b000001cgwr343F1_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1b000001c076yAF19_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100s1b000001c73tk922F_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100m1b000001c9m3i6A31_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1b000001c1sv4E392_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100g1b000001c0x4e3084_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1b000001c078fB85A_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1b000001c078rEA05_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p1b000001bzd2h54B2_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p1b000001bzd52018D_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100f1b000001c092aBDB4_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100i1b000001bz1v27299_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10081b000001c0fcvAFF0_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1b000001c0a4i92B1_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1b000001bz2orF4D3_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10031b000001c1ykp03EF_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r1b000001bynm76896_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100a1b000001c1jyh329F_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1b000001c4eyn65FD_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r1b000001bynmhCDB0_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1b000001c2zeb5AF0_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1b000001c07f6AE3A_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100d1b000001byr4tC18A_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100w1b000001c69nn2980_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100s1b000001c741q0722_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100a1b000001c1jzf7CFB_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1b000001c1iu9A02D_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10091b000001c2mx86D8F_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10091b000001c2mxn93BE_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1b000001c2zfy4B99_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100g1b000001c0xd0DDBB_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100i1b000001bz1z63055_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1b000001c2zgc8571_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10041b000001bz7t18C28_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10041b000001bz7t6DBCF_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10041b000001bz7ty42E4_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1b000001c1ixq4FA1_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1b000001c4f3k9F0A_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100j1b000001bzr4lD6CB_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10051b000001c2qre3FA3_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r1b000001bynsb7D15_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10071b000001cgx5pDEE9_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10091b000001c2n2zCD50_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10031b000001c1yrqD8B2_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l1b000001c0emaF73C_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10061b000001c0uzzE780_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100r1b000001bynui1C16_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100i1b000001bz25pC921_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10061b000001c0v0i0C32_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1b000001bz2z744B2_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
老桥：
阿尔诺河从佛罗伦萨流向比萨，不停息地向大海奔去。河上一桥横跨，这座桥几乎成了佛罗伦萨城的标志。
在罗马帝国时代就有了，当时桥墩是巨石砌成，桥面是木板。1345年重建成三拱大石桥。桥面很宽，桥面开设店铺。卖肉摊、卖奶酪、卖香肠、修鞋的、打铁的等，桥上就像一个热闹的市场。1591年，大公爵费迪南托不能忍受桥上的肉腥味飘进宫中，下令桥上只能开设金匠店。
说有一次发大水淹了大桥，好多金银流入河中。
传说，但丁就是在桥上与亚特里奇相遇相爱的。读但丁的诗，美丽的老桥如一道彩虹飞架在爱河之上。
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100s1b000001bpl9vB4CA_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1b000001bkabkD3A9_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10051b000001bl7vm9F5C_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100s1b000001bplbi5DAF_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p1b000001bhuhx21B2_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1b000001bioq80BBB_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
“金匠大师”本维内托.切利尼的半身塑像：
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1b000001blgpq55B9_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1b000001birhm7928_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10091b000001c2n7m9C74_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100l1b000001c0eqmAB38_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100p1b000001bzdjbCC8E_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1b000001c1teb0B5F_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]
[img]https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10081b000001c0fr2A456_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient[/img]